Compare any two turntables

Every deck in the database, head to head — specifications side by side plus a data-derived explanation of the practical differences.

Popular comparisons

Common questions

Is a more expensive turntable always better?

Not in every sense. Price mostly buys mechanical stability (steadier speed, less rumble) and a better tonearm and cartridge, which matter most once you're listening critically on a resolving system. On a modest setup, a $250 deck and a $700 deck can sound closer than the price gap suggests — the amp, speakers and room usually matter more than the last 20% of turntable spend.

What does drive type change?

Drive type changes the mechanism and practical behaviour. Belt drive separates the motor and platter with a belt; direct drive couples the platter to the motor and starts quickly; idler drive uses a wheel against the platter rim and is now mainly found on vintage models. The comparison table does not score one mechanism as universally better.

Should I compare a current deck against a vintage one?

You can, but weigh the numbers differently. A vintage price is a typical used figure that swings with condition and originality, and there's no warranty — you're also budgeting for a service (new belt, bearing oil, cartridge) that a current deck won't need on day one.

What matters more: the turntable or the cartridge?

For most listeners, the cartridge is the bigger lever on actual sound quality — it's the part that reads the groove. A mid-tier deck with a good cartridge often beats a better deck with a worn or basic one, which is why we list the fitted cartridge on every comparison.